Six days of oak forests, the roaring Pindar river and a glacier snout at the foot of Nanda Khat. A flawlessly run trek with guides I'd follow anywhere.
From the city to the trailhead
I'd done a couple of Himachal treks before, but the Pindari had been on my list for years. The team picked me up from Kathgodam and drove me to Loharkhet, briefing me on the route, the weather and the camps along the way. By the time I started walking, I knew exactly what each day held.
Khati, Dwali and Phurkia
The trek climbs over the Dhakuri pass to Khati, the last village, then follows the Pindar gorge to Dwali and up to Phurkia. The camps were already pitched when we arrived, the tea was hot, and the dinners — dal, sabzi, rice, even halwa one night — were better than I'd eaten on any trek.
Our lead guide Deepak grew up in Khati. He knew every bend in the trail, spotted a herd of bharal for us, and quietly kept an eye on everyone's pace and breathing.
Zero Point
Summit morning, we left Phurkia in the dark and reached Zero Point — the glacier snout at around 3,660 m — just as the sun hit Nanda Khat. I sat there for a long time, completely silent. It is one of the most beautiful places I have ever stood.
The descent was knee-jarring but the team had it managed: porters for the heavy bags, regular breaks, and a celebratory meal back at the roadhead. I've already asked them about Kafni and Sunderdhunga for next year.
A real guest story, shared with permission. Names are published with our travellers’ consent.
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